Rachael Ray combines three or more recipes into a
meal which can be made at home by inexperienced cooks from
ingredients available at your local supermarket in about 30
minutes, with some minimal advance preparation. She does this
very, very well in her books and on her Food Network series.
Rachael's TV series is shown somewhere between
Mario Batali's ethnic Italian cuisine and Martha Stewart's high
end cooking / entertaining demonstrations. Herein lies the moral
of the story. Rachael does not feature haute cuisine, ethnic
Italian, formal entertaining, fancy pastry, high nutrition, low
calorie, economic preparations, or vegetarian. She does good food
at home in a short time. This doesn't mean her meals are not
nutritious or fattening, or use poor technique. Her preparations
use a very high percentage of fresh ingredients and a low
percentage of suspect animal fats and overly prepared ingredients.
Many meals are a Mediterranean diet for everyman. Her use of extra
virgin olive oil rivals Mario and her use of garlic would make
Emril proud.
Her techniques are sound and very achievable for
anyone with at least one very good knife, a food processor, a
grill pan, and a few large saute pans and a large dutch oven. The
only culinary skill one needs are fairly good knive skills, plus
the discipline to keep that one knive very sharp. For those
critics who say they learn nothing from Rachael's presentations, I
say they miss the point. She is showing you how to eat well
without great chops in the kitchen.
The thing which impresses me the most is that in
spite of her retro 50's décor on her show, her food does NOT
emulate the 50's food doctrines focusing on assembling easy meals
from prepared foods. Having lived through the 50's with a working
mother, I know exactly what that was like, and this ain't it.
There is a fairly heavy use of fresh foods in partially prepared
form, such as deboned chicken breasts and prewashed, precut salad
greens. This means Rachael's meals may be slightly more expensive
than similar meals done a la Mario from prima materia, but if
you're a 35 year old with a good job, working 10 hours a day, 30
minutes to prepare a meal is a real bargain. I also know that
loosing the bone on meats will loose some sources of flavor, but
cross your heart and hope to die, do you really notice the
difference on Tuesday night after a hard day at work.
If one compares Rachael's work to those nearest to
her style on the Food Network, I believe you will see the really
has her act much more firmly together than the new 'Good Food
Fast' show and, dare I say it, she succeeds much better at what
she does than the Food Network icon Sara Moulton. Sara
concentrates on techniques, unusual foods, and unusual cuisines. I
routinely cook from Sara Moulton's book and I do not routinely
cook from Rachael's books, but then I'm retired and cooking is my
hobby. Rachael does what she does very, very well. She may just
not be what you are looking for.
I started taking Rachael much more seriously when
I realized her 30 Minute Meal format predated her appearing on the
Food Network. She cooked it up herself and was not a creature of
Food Network producers. Another kudo to Food Network for, like
Alton Brown's 'Good Eats', seeing something good and running with
it.
The most important caveat I would place on
Rachael's menus is that accomplishing them in 30 minutes does
require you to have a well organized kitchen with all foods
equipment in good working order and immediately at hand. It also
requires a very good advance knowledge of the recipes. The 30
minutes doesn't include the time it takes to read the recipe, do
the shopping, and make sure everything is at the ready. It also
helps to be thirtysomething with good knife skills. I have never
caught Rachael cheating on her show (unlike Ms. Carmichael on the
Good Food Fast show) but she accomplishes her goal by being
constantly in motion, with not a second taken to reread the recipe
or track down a missing onion.
Rachael's books are not free of errors. In one
recipe, for example, a russet potato is identified as general
purpose, when it is much more properly identified as a starchy
potato. However, the use to which the potato was put in the recipe
was CORRECT. I have found more serious culinary mistakes in a book
by Emeril Legasse!
Rachael is not Julia Child or Lidia Bastianich or
Diana Kennedy. She does food quickly at home with simple
ingredients and equipment and she does it very well, presented at
a very reasonable price.